Pol Roger's vintage Brut from 2004, labelled Cuvée de Réserve.

This is the Vinothèque release of Pol Roger's 2004 Brut Vintage, dressed in the house's historic Cuvée de Réserve label. It follows the traditional vintage blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from 20 Grand and Premier Cru villages in the Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. It was disgorged in January 2015 with a dosage of nine grams per litre, then returned to the 33-metre-deep Épernay cellars to rest before release. 2004 brought a record crop after a cool, wet August, rescued by a warm, sunny September that delivered healthy, ripe grapes. James Suckling (98 points) calls it "so salty, layered and delicious," with brioche, walnut and salted caramel, yet delicate and very fresh. Wine Advocate finds it fully developed and generous today, and Suckling says drink or hold. 12% ABV, 750ml.