Château Haut-Brion 2022, First Growth Pessac-Léognan.

The 2022 blends 53.6% Merlot, 35.4% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, with more Merlot than usual because the Cabernet Sauvignon crop was so small, and it was aged in 62.9% new oak. Three heat waves and almost no summer rain marked the vintage, yet the vines coped and the reds were picked at full ripeness between August 29 and September 15. Director Jean-Philippe Delmas describes it as a synthesis of 2008's acidity, 2009's pH and 2010's tannins. Antonio Galloni of Vinous (98+ points) calls it "powerful and explosive," a blockbuster framed by imposing tannins, and Jeb Dunnuck (98+ points) says it is "as good as it gets on the palate." This is a wine for the long haul: Galloni's drinking window runs from 2032 to 2072, and Dunnuck expects it to evolve for 50 years or more. 14.5% ABV, 750ml.